Step down from Elgin Street into the raw concrete and reclaimed wood-panelled space where denim-clad waiters greet you, their uniforms mirrored in the indigo upholstery of the banquettes. An eclectic soundtrack of Japanese and American punk sets the tone of the bar, rowdy and without frills, where guests pull up stools alongside the open kitchen to watch the chefs at work, or sit tucked in booths chatting across hammered metal-topped tables.